Carbon-fiber-epoxy has the disadvantage of being a mess to work with, but it has the distinct advantage of allowing super-strong carbon-fiber parts to be made in a small shop with hand tools (plus lots of rubber gloves and good ventilation). From a model part, either 3D-printed, or hand-shaped from epoxy putty or FEMO, a two-part top/bottom silicone mold is made (subject of a future tutorial). A thin uni-directional carbon-fiber sheet is then ripped into strips of various lengths 0.5 – 1.5cm wide.  The bottom mold half, pre-chilled in a refrigerator, has a puddle of black slow-set epoxy poured in, and then carbon-fiber strips, pre-wetted with the epoxy, are put in the mold in desired patterns to provide stiffness in preferred directions. In a Ridgewing frame, the neck torque created by the strings’ tension is transferred to the lower bout via the inner “flying buttress”, seen as the diagonal feature.  To connect the upper bout securely to the lower bout, a suite of strips are laid in connecting the lower bout to the upper bout. When the lower cavity is fully stuffed, the mold is closed and clamped, tilted up at an angle, and more black epoxy is injected into the bottom edge of the mold cavity using large plastic hand syringes, where it gradually fills in any air voids in the mold cavity.  When the epoxy starts oozing out of an upper mold free of bubbles, the mold box, clamped with about a dozen standard hand-clamps, is laid flat and left overnight.  In the morning, a finished part emerges. Automotive Bondo is used to fill any pesky surface bubbles and sanded out.  The part is ready for spray-painting with your favorite color. Hobby shops sell the coolest metallic color spray paints.  The best gold spray paint found so far is good old hardware-store Rustoleum Gold. If you get tired of an old color, just hang the part on a clothesline, put on the new color, and in an hour you are playing your guitar with a whole new look.